Combining the subtle minimalism of 90’s culture with the geometric narrative of Japanese artitecture Kaytie Wu’s eyponmous collection is inspired by her love of travelling through cultures. In the Western world there is a poor representation of multiculturalism and Katie hopes to remedy the eurocentric ethos through Oriental jewellery. With hexagonanal gold earrings, delicate rose gold distortion of shape and a refreshing sense of clarity running throughout Kaytiewu’s jewellery line it is little wonder that critics have lapped up its directional offerings. Directional ethos aside Kaytiewu seeks to think outside the box and whether it is through subversion of shape or mixed metals one can never guess what Kaytie will create next.
But it is her effortless merger between European sentimentality and Japanese minimalism that gets my seal of approval. With minimalist shapes versus delicate sawvoroski crystals the marriage between modernism and minimalism echoes Post- World War II Western Art which saw geometric abstraction as a rejection of illusionistic space. Minimalism’s rejection of illusionist space echoes throughout the centuries:from Islamic Art to Japanese artitecture minimalists influence has transcended into the creation of modern jewellery. Modern jewellers like Katywu cunningly adapt key minimalist tractions i.e. geometric abstraction, absence of colour and clean lines to fit the modern consumers tastes. In any debut collection there are stand-out guaranteed sell-out pieces and Kaytiewu’s ‘Rose Gold Water Drop Bangle’ and ‘Rose Gold Line Crystal Ring’ both with brushed metal design fit the bill.
Featuring a brushed on Rose Gold effect, the waterdrop bangle at £20 looks more luxe than its price suggests and is ideal for people who don’t have the budget to pay for high-end rose gold. As someone who has just graduated from university my budget is tight and buying a few select luxe pieces like Kaytie Wu’s waterdrop bangle will not break the bank. Paired with Kaytie Wu’s delicate swavoski ring and Elie Beaumont’s Rose Gold Teal Strap Watch the fusion of geometric abstraction and 2016’s obsession with rose gold created a luxe layered look that was both timeless and elegant in its appearence. The delicate crystal ring with plated rose gold is priced at £18 continuing the philosophy of ‘less is more’, to maximize the aesthetics by the simplest element. The ‘streamlined artistic direction draws from water flow, reflecting the independence and endurance of modern women, adding mellowness, harmony and elegance to the Geo collection’ while the minimal stones is an ancient secret waiting to be uncovered.
To compliment the abstract narrative of Kaytie Wu’s Geo collection, adding blush tones with embroidered detail adds subtle colour to your look while the plush faux fur in nude is post-war nostalgia and indulgence at its finest. The subtle interlink between nude, cracked irridescent rose gold and fermented blush only serves to intensify the luxe nature of Kaytie Wu’s signature minimalist aesthetic and is a defiant proclaimation against ornate gem engravings dating back from Medieval and Renaissance which saw ‘more splendour’ as a mark of true jewellery character. Today’s jewels are as diverse as the wearers that wear them and Kaytie Wu hopes that the clean, simple elegance of her Geo collection will be a turning point for modern jewellers who ‘mass produce’ rather than curate a collection with a clear ethos and passion.